Wahine’s Number O.N.E. Coconut Water

Despite the absolutely obscene cost of living, Hawai’i does have some economic advantages. I mean, if you’re starving, you can always climb a coconut tree -preferably a short Samoan- or even find a nut that has fallen (without crackin’) and machete it open. Drink the sweet juice, especially of the young coconut, and feel that [...]

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Sharks, Swells and Stinky Smells

It’s kinda a thing with surfers, to recite our homogeneous oceanic factoids and universal truths, though on occasion we’re not necessarily precisely sure what we’re talking about. This seems to be the case in regards to sharks, and particularly their olfactory sensibilities and its effect upon their desire to attack.
How many times have we heard [...]

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Honu Attacks in Hawai’i!

As a magazine writer (publishing my own magazines where I could -and would- add pages and shrink type size to barely legible as needed), I’ve grown accustomed to the zealous and verbose. Hey, when we wrote freelance back then we got two dollars for every drawn-out word (ah, the good old dayz). Anyway, I like [...]

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Yawn From Cincinnati Wipes Out!

I recall this summer, my So. Cal surf buddy Marguerite made a funny comment regarding HBO’s then new “John From Cincinnati” while we were walking to the showers at El Porto and found ourselves bombarded with the show’s poster campaign. Well, the comment was more cleverly phrased but the gist was something to the effect [...]

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How to Get Surfer Girl Hair

With search engines leading people who are trying to get “Surfer Girl Hair” to my article essentially detailing how to avoid it (“Secret Hair Tips for the Surfer Girl”), I decided I might as well publish my own recipe for the look. Likely a “How To” appeared on some trendy web site inflicting fads on [...]

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Point Break 2: Young, Dumb and…More Surf Movies to Cum

You know, before Gidget came out in the late ’50s, there were supposedly only 5,000 surfers in the world. With that and the beach blanket bingo era to follow, by 1962 it’s been estimated a whopping 100,000 took to the waves. Today how many might there be? Millions?
My first bit of interest in surfing came [...]

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If the Dalai Lama Was a Surfer…

No matter how peace and love one wants to be, or wants others to be, sometimes we fall prey to our immediate reactions and needs, where even the telling of the story shows my own inability towards benevolence. The Zen of surfing makes all of our experiences out in the water relatable and symbolic on [...]

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Surf Session: The Song in Your Head

When the waves are going off, like really going off, I always have the same song in my head. It’s not a song I ever, ever listen to or sing while on land. Actually, I don’t really know the words. It’s more like playing air guitar. I’m paddling out, huge waves slamming me. Then out [...]

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Secret Hair Tips for the Surfer Girl

There is one thing every girl who surfs has in common. I mean, besides all the requisite health and physical benefits – one of the downsides is, we all have hair problems. Just think of putting a fine strand of silk in salt water and then letting it bake in the sun, then wetting it [...]

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